How to Choose the Best Exfoliants for Your Skin Type: Hydroxy Acids, Polishes, Scrubs & More

The Power of Exfoliation

Exfoliation is a crucial step in any skincare routine. It not only removes dead skin cells and impurities from the outermost layer of your skin’s surface, but it also helps the rest of your skincare products achieve their maximum potential. Additionally, regular exfoliation has been linked to a handful of impressive benefits, including increased levels of hydration, a reduction in the appearance of fine lines, and an overall brighter and more even-toned complexion. But with so many options out there, finding the best face exfoliator for your needs can feel overwhelming. The key? Start by determining your skin type. Then, read on as we guide you to the best face scrubs and exfoliants for your unique skin.

Types of Chemical Exfoliants

Chemical exfoliants, also known as liquid exfoliants, use chemicals to gently dissolve dead skin cells. They can come in numerous formats, including cleansers, toners, peels, serums, creams, and masks.

Chemical exfoliants are wonderful for almost all skin types—however, consider the percentage and be cautious when first incorporating them into your routine. When in doubt, follow the packaging guidelines (as some formulas are more potent and designed for weekly use, while others are at a lesser percentage and intended to be used daily) and do a spot test first.

In recent years, chemical exfoliants have been lauded for their effectiveness—and rightfully so. Chemical exfoliants are beneficial because they help brighten the surface of the skin, eliminate dead skin cells, and curb excess oil for most skin types. Here are the three most common chemical exfoliants.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Alpha hydroxy acids are mostly comprised of glycolic, citric, mandelic, and lactic acid. AHAs are proven to address the appearance of skin, targeting dark spots, acne scars, and any other form of hyperpigmentation. AHAs exfoliate the skin’s surface, but they also help ingredients applied afterward penetrate deeper into the layers of the skin (thus boosting the product’s overall effectiveness). This form of acid is great for almost any skin type, although any type of acid should be used cautiously at first.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

In contrast to AHAs, Beta hydroxy acids are best known for their most popular iteration: salicylic acid. BHAs are synonymous with acne-fighting because they’re oil-soluble and incredibly small molecules, making them capable of penetrating inside the pore, addressing bacteria, sebum, and debris at the root of the problem. BHAs can be irritating for some because they work so deeply and effectively – so use caution when incorporating them into your regime, or consider incorporating products containing BHA alternatives into your skincare routine instead.

Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)

Polyhydroxy acids are commonly seen as gluconolactone, galactose, and lactobionic acid. While those acid names don’t have quite the star-following of AHAs or BHAs, PHAs have a major benefit over their cousins: less irritation. The molecular size of PHAs is quite large compared to the other acids, making them ideal for sensitive skin. PHAs work very similarly to AHAs, addressing the surface of the skin for a more even-toned appearance.

Types of Physical Exfoliants

Physical exfoliation includes scrubs or polishes to remove dead skin cells physically (aka manually). This category also includes tools, such as washcloths, brushes, and sponges. Physical exfoliants famously have a reputation for being more harsh and unpredictable. But if using a product with gentle ingredients, like rice bran, the scrub can be wonderfully effective.

Physical exfoliants have been shown to stimulate collagen production, unveil smoother skin, and create a luminous, healthy glow. However, they’re often associated with the harsh physical exfoliants of yesteryear that would tear up the skin, leaving it raw, red, and damaged. But not all physical exfoliants are bad. When a formula is approached with expertise and care, a physical exfoliant can be wonderful for all skin types, from sensitive to oily.

Face Polishes

At Tatcha, we believe in the time-tested category of physical exfoliation known as face polishes. Face polishes date back centuries, when geisha utilized finely milled rice powder to delicately polish their pristine skin daily. The benefit of daily non-abrasive exfoliation is that they transform the texture and tone of skin, without the irritation and redness associated with more harsh exfoliating formulas.

Manual Scrubs

Scrubs and cleansers with exfoliating beads are a few of the most notable physical exfoliants available. This genre can be tainted for some based on popular early aughts face scrubs that included harsh ingredients like walnut and apricot shells. These scrubs with uneven granules could potentially leave tears in the skin, causing irritation—and even scarring in some cases. But this genre of manual scrubs is in the rearview mirror. The majority of today’s options are thoughtfully crafted and thoroughly tested for effectiveness and safety. However, as with any exfoliant, ensure you grab an option that’s not irritating, which can be assessed by testing it on the back of the hands first. 

Tools

A physical exfoliation tool can be as simple as a washcloth or as complex as a battery-powered brush with countless exchangeable heads. Whatever option you’re considering, make sure it’s clean. A tool, even a silk washcloth, needs to be thoroughly cleaned before it ever touches the skin so as not to add additional bacteria to the skin’s surface.

The Best Exfoliant for Each Skin Type

Do you know your skin type? Understanding your skin type is endlessly helpful, so you can discover products specifically tailored to you. This is especially important when it comes to exfoliants though, which are cosmetically perfected for specific skin types. For example, oily skin exfoliators will likely include ingredients that help to curb excessive oil production, which wouldn’t be necessary for those with dry skin. Once you understand your skin type, you can uncover a bevy of products just for you, including the best exfoliants. Below you’ll find the best facial exfoliator for your unique skin.

Combination & Normal Skin

The Rice Polish: Classic. Forget everything you know about physical exfoliants. Tatcha’s Rice Polish is a water-activated face polish, which transforms into a creamy, cloud-like foam. While it is generally recommended to use exfoliators less frequently, the non-abrasive formula of The Rice Polish formulas makes them safe to use daily. Finely ground rice bran and papaya enzymes promote natural skin turnover, while the amino acid-base formula provides effective cleansing without stripping the skin of essential moisture or breaking the skin’s barrier function. The Classic formula also includes silk proteins to condition and nourish, leaving normal and combination skin types more balanced, as well as baby soft and supple.

Dry Skin

The Rice Polish: Gentle. Dry skin leaving your face feeling tight and dehydrated, while looking dull and lackluster? An exfoliant geared towards this skin type is beneficial because it includes ingredients that gently exfoliate while also flooding the skin with hydration. Tatcha’s Gentle iteration of the Rice Polish includes licorice root, an ancient ingredient known as “the king of natural medicines.” In the formula, the potent antioxidant helps prevent flakiness and tightness.

Oily Skin

The Rice Polish: Deep. Oily skin thrives with consistent exfoliation. Regular use of an exfoliator can help address oily skin woes, including clogged pores, blackheads, and acne. While it might be tempting to go extra intense on exfoliating oily skin, thinking the harder and more aggressive the treatment, the better the results—but this couldn’t be further from the truth, as this process will only trigger further irritation and potentially even more oil. Instead, the best exfoliator for oily skin is a formula like The Rice Polish: Deep, which includes wild rose to help tighten the look of pores and clarify skin. The bloom has natural antiseptic qualities, as well as hydrating and soothing elements, that make it perfect for clarifying and smoothing the face, especially oily and acne-prone skin. While this face polish is designed to address excessively oily skin, it still includes calming and balancing ingredients that soothe while diminishing the appearance of pores.

Sensitive Skin

The Rice Polish: Calming. Are you looking for the best exfoliator to treat sensitive skin? That can be a tall order, considering most individuals with sensitive skin can be triggered by inappropriate exfoliation. However, the famed Tatcha Institute in Tokyo specifically formulated The Rice Polish: Calming to soothe visible irritation, while also gently buffing away dead skin cells. The ingenious formula also includes Japanese indigo, a historic and powerful ingredient that is clinically proven to calm and soothe. What makes indigo specifically anti-inflammatory and antibacterial? You can thank indigo’s active ingredients, tryptanthrin and indirubin, to help provide incredibly impressive relief for those with sensitive skin. Tryptanthrin is a nitrogen-rich compound known to help flush away toxins and irritants, while indirubin supports the skin’s natural barrier function. The ingredient dates back to the Edo Period, when Japan’s noble Samurai wore a layer of indigo-dyed cloth beneath their armor to aid in the healing of injured skin. This formula also omits papaya enzymes to make it extra gentle.

Mature Skin

The Rice Polish: Classic. Discovering the best exfoliator for mature skin can be a difficult task because as you age, skin becomes more sensitive and dry. However, regularly (and carefully!) exfoliating mature skin with the ideal scrub can impart a dewy fresh glow. Grab a formula – The Rice Polish; Classic would be great – that exfoliates but also delivers added benefits, like softening and nourishing. The finely ground rice bran and papaya enzymes will help promote natural skin turnover, which naturally slows as we age, while silk proteins nourish. The face polish leaves aging skin soft and supple.

The Best Gentle Exfoliating Scrub

The Rice Polish: Gentle. No matter your skin type, sometimes you want to slow things down in your skincare routine and go back to the gentle basics. Snag the best gentle exfoliator, a soothing version of the famed Rice Polish, which features licorice root as a soothing salve to address flaky and tight skin. Licorice root is also naturally rich in glycyrrhizate, an effective tyrosinase inhibitor, which can help to prevent the production of dark spots.

The Best Chemical Exfoliant

The Texture Tonic. Chemical exfoliants are undeniably beneficial. However, they can also be incredibly irritating and complicated to use (for example, certain skincare ingredients can interfere with potent AHAs and BHAs). Grab The Texture Tonic for total ease of mind—literally. The liquid exfoliant is scented with a functional fragrance blend of sweet fennel and rosemary, two botanicals known to increase focus and mental clarity. In addition to the sensory experience, the formula is also easy to use. The AHA-powered formula was designed for all skin types and is gentle enough to be used daily. It’s specifically formulated to reduce excess oil and sebum, while also improving skin’s moisture levels. The formula has niacinamide to visibly even skin tone and Japanese mugwort to calm visible redness and irritation, plus it improves skin’s moisture levels.

The Best Exfoliating Cleanser

The Matcha Cleanse. For the skincare minimalist, have your cleanser double as an exfoliant with The Matcha Cleanse. Packed full of clever ingredients, this daily clarifying gel cleanser decongests pores without stripping skin, while also rebalancing skin’s natural oil production for smoother skin and reduced makeup slip-off. The formula includes BHA alternatives coix seed and willow bark to increase skin surface turnover, helping to purify and even skin tone. The refreshing watery-foam cleanser also features premium Kyo-matcha (ceremonial grade and sourced directly from the famed Uji region in Kyoto), which is impressively linked to a reduction in acne. This cleanser can be used daily without a worry of irritation or over-exfoliation.

The Best Exfoliating Mask

The Clarifying Clay Mask. For an extra dose of purifying and exfoliating, grab The Clarifying Clay Mask, which is one of the best face masks for deep-cleaning pores. Japanese konjac gently exfoliates away dead skin to reduce pore congestion, while mineral-rich Okinawa kucha clay absorbs excess oil, sebum, and dirt to unclog and reduce the appearance of pores. Also, Japanese volcanic ash creates a warming sensation on the skin, allowing for pores to draw out excess oil, sebum, and dirt. When all three potent ingredients combine, the mask gives the appearance of smoother and clearer skin in just a few minutes.

The Best Exfoliating Tool

Kinu Pure Silk Polishing Face Cloth. For those that prefer to take things ultra-gentle, try this wonderfully delicate face cloth crafted from 100 percent pure silk. Made for the most sensitive and precious of skin, it smooths away dull surface cells and leaves skin smooth and lustrous. This luxurious cloth is inspired by the generations of individuals in Japan who would polish their skin with swatches of silk to reveal a lustrous glow. The all-natural, absorbent, and reusable cloth is multipurpose, too: it can be used dry for gentle exfoliation or wet for deeper exfoliation.

The Art of Balanced Exfoliation

No matter what exfoliation method and product is right for you, ensure that you’re exfoliating correctly and at the ideal frequency. Exfoliation, if done too much or intensely, can cause irritation and inflammation. At Tatcha, we believe in putting the ‘care’ back into your skincare routine, and that is especially true when it comes to exfoliants.