Essence vs. Serum: How They Differ and Why You Need Both

When you see the words ‘essence’ and ‘serum’, do you think of complicated, 10+ step skincare rituals? While Japanese skincare routines can sound complex, they are usually centered around the idea of simplicity and effectiveness. And an essence and serum go perfectly together, helping one another work even more effectively on the skin. But what is the difference between an essence and a serum and how do you best utilize each? We uncover the answers below, as well as the best serums and essence for you.

What Is An Essence?

The Japanese skincare ritual has long been centered around botanical-infused essences. These thin and fragrance-free “beauty waters" are a fundamental step in softening and brightening skin. While it might seem like an unnecessary step in your daily ritual, this game-changing product can transform skin in mere seconds. The water-light essence floods skin with hydration and amplifies the performance of any treatment by channeling it into the skin, notes Tatcha founder Vicky Tsai.

And while the majority of Japanese individuals today use an essence as part of their daily routine, the product has been heralded for centuries. Before essences were bottled, the botanicals were harnessed with a distillation technique of tiered tea kettles. Boiled and steamed flowers were expertly extracted into potent essences, which were then delicately applied to the skin for radiance and softening.

Today, essences can be packed full of complex ingredients, but at Tatcha we believe in a simple, pure, and fermented formula that was developed in our Tokyo lab many years ago. Our proprietary blend of green tea, seaweed, and rice work together to provide plump, baby-soft skin instantaneously. The secret is our fermented nutrients that produce lactic acid, which helps with cellular turnover and improves skin’s texture. Also beneficial are green tea (regarded as one of the most powerful antioxidants), which targets free radicals, and seaweed, which replenishes skin’s natural water reservoir and increases its capability to retain moisture.

Since an essence is basically nutrition for the skin, look for products that do not list water as the first or major ingredient, advises Tsai. Also, avoid essences that note alcohol as a primary ingredient, because alcohol will dry the skin.

An essence, which is patted into the skin twice daily after cleansing, doing a double cleanse, or polishing, should always precede any ritual enhancements like serums, moisturizers, or facial oils. You may be so enamored with the plumpness of your skin and its resulting luster that you’ll be tempted to skip the next step—but don’t. The most important job of the essence and its primary function is to make the skin ready for whatever treatment follows. The essence is the first act of giving back to your skin after you have shed impurities by purifying and polishing.

How to Apply An Essence

You might be tempted to treat an essence like a toner by utilizing the formula on a cotton pad—but don’t use this with an essence. Don’t waste this precious formula by letting half of it soak into a cotton round. After cleansing or polishing, pour a shallow well of essence into one hand, press your palms together, and then gently pat the essence into the skin of your face, neck, and décolletage. Then, immediately follow with a serum and/or moisturizer.

What Is A Serum?

Serums are highly potent skincare treatments that work to increase the overall effectiveness of your entire skincare ritual. These liquid or gel formulas contain high concentrations of ingredients, which are able to penetrate into your skin more deeply. At night, these concentrated and nutrient-dense formulas can also help to aid in skin repair while you sleep.

There are countless formulas that target innumerous focuses, from brightening to hydrating to smoothing. Anyone can benefit from introducing a facial serum into your skincare ritual—whether you are in your 20s or your 70s, skin can always use an added boost of nourishment, especially in drier months and drier climates. Depending on the strength of the formula and the focus, the frequency of application will vary. But, usually, serums should be applied directly after an essence twice a day and then a moisturizer will directly follow the application of a serum.

How to Apply A Serum

Using your fingertips, massage serum into your skin in upward circular strokes. Because serums are known for their active ingredients, double-check formulas for safety and frequency of application. It’s ideal to do a spot test first to check for possible irritation in an inconspicuous area, like behind the ear or side of the neck.

Essence vs. Serum

While some skincare products can be marketed as either or both—essences have a water-like texture that instantly soaks into the skin to soften and hydrate, while a serum is thicker and more viscous and targets specific concerns. That said, an essence and a serum work harmoniously together, helping to make each other more effective and beneficial. In fact, using both an essence and a serum together has been shown in studies to support overall skin hydration, firmness, and elasticity, while also reducing water loss throughout the day.

The Best Essence

For All-Day Hydration 

One of the most vital and transformative products to accomplish the nourishing task of hydration is The Essence. Tatcha’s treatment essence is comprised of a simple—yet miraculous—formula of 100 percent Hadasei-3, a proprietary fermented complex of the very superfoods core to the Japanese diet: rice, algae, and green tea. This potent formula resurfaces and hydrates for primed, plump, petal-soft skin. But one of the most important functions of The Essence is to make the skin ready for whatever treatment follows, so it’s ideal to apply the water-thin formula morning and night after cleansing and prior to serums and moisturizers.

The Best Serums

For Fine Lines and Wrinkles

Looking to target the look of fine lines and wrinkles without harsh products and complicated formulas? Try Tatcha’s Silk Serum, which visibly firms skin and boosts radiance with an innovative mix of plant-based ingredients including upcycled cranberry extract and sea fennel.

For Skin Brightening

To reduce hyperpigmentation, refine skin texture, and boost elasticity, try The Brightening Serum. The formula contains a potent blend of 12-hour time-release vitamin C and ferulic acid, an antioxidant that defends against free radical damage and while boosting SPF protection.

For Hydration

If you’re seeking plumper and dewier skin, consider The Dewy Serum, a milky formula that renews, resurfaces, floods the skin with hydration, and locks in moisture. The blend includes our proprietary Hadasei-3 complex, hyaluronic acid, and squalane for hydration that sticks around all day long.*

*based on bioinstrumentation study conducted on 25 people.

For Hydration On-the-Go

If you’d like to start your day with a boost of hydration—or reapply on-the-go as needed—grab the portable Serum Stick. The concentrated solid serum, made of squalane and Japanese lemon balm, targets signs of aging and dryness instantly and over time, keeping skin and makeup fresh throughout the day.

For Soothing & Calming

If calming irritation and soothing skin is top of mind, consider Tatcha’s groundbreaking Indigo Overnight Repair. Unlike the Indigo Calming Cream, the Indigo Overnight Repair is a soothing serum-in-moisturizer treatment that visibly calms irritation, strengthens skin’s barrier, and balances the microbiome with indigo extracts and ceramides. The unique formula has been shown to improve skin radiance, softness, suppleness, skin texture, and tone in just one night.*

*Based on a 4-week clinical study of 41 participants.

It’s a misconception that skincare rituals have to be intensive, time-consuming regimens. It can be quite the opposite, as classic rituals that are short and effortless can be just as transformative for the skin and soul alike. The secret is finding formulas that are multifaceted and beneficial when paired together, like an essence and serum. These few simple steps will translate into beautiful skin, not just for today, but for a lifetime.