Oil Cleanser vs. Water-Based Cleanser: Which Is Right for You?

Facial cleansers have come a long way since their origins. Harsh, surfactant-based formulations have been replaced with multi-purpose, skin-benefitting options that can support the user’s overall skincare needs. Two modern cleansers that fit the more elegant side of cleansing are oil cleansers and water-based cleansers. But you might be wondering about the difference between the two and which is right for you. While they both have definite benefits, they also excel in two different ways. To make things easy, we’ve gathered everything you need to know about oil cleansers vs water cleansers, which formula is best for your skin, when and how to use both, and how to choose the right cleanser for your skin type. Keep reading to come clean on the topic. 

What Is An Oil-Based Cleanser?

Oil-based cleansers, often known as cleansing oils, are formulas that specifically use oils to dissolve makeup, debris, and excessive oil on the skin’s surface. You have an oil-based cleanser if the formula looks ‘separated’ (but that is intentional, you have to shake them before use to combine ingredients) or oil is listed as one of the first ingredients. Is an oil cleanser the same thing as facial oil? While they might seem similar in theory, an oil cleanser is formulated vastly different from a facial oil. A facial oil is designed to sit on the surface of the skin, hydrating and protecting, while a cleansing oil is formulated for cleansing and grabs hold of oil, makeup, and surface debris, allowing them to be washed away. While many cleansers can accomplish nearly all this, the benefit of an oil-based cleanser is its unmatched ability to quickly eliminate makeup and excessive oils while simultaneously softening and moisturizing skin. 

What Is A Water-Based Cleanser?

A water-based cleanser is formulated with water as the main ingredient. To confirm you have a water-based cleanser, check the ingredient list, where water will be one of the first ingredients listed. The formula likely takes advantage of water-soluble particles, which grab onto and wash away sunscreen, makeup, and debris. Water-based cleansers can come in a variety of formulations, from gel to foaming and even micellar waters. The reason water-based cleansers are so beloved is because of their refreshing feel and ease of use, but also their wonderful effectiveness. 

Which Is Better?

The question of “oil cleanser vs water-based cleanser” is a difficult one to answer. At Tatcha, we choose to look at oil and water-based cleansers as an effective duo, rather than star-crossed enemies. An effective skincare cleansing routine can include both an oil-based cleanser and a water-based cleanser — when paired, this becomes a double cleanse aka The Kyoto Cleanse. When used together, skin can become cleaner, with every stitch of sunscreen, stubborn makeup, and sweat melted and washed away. Rather than plotting oil vs. water-based cleanser, consider them best friends — when paired together, the two help each other work more efficiently. 

Who Should Use An Oil-Based Cleanser?

Nearly everyone can gain from the remarkable benefits of an oil-based cleanser. If you find your skin needs help removing makeup, skincare products, and debris — and is extra dry, an oil-based cleanser is an ideal option. An oil cleanser can not only cleanse but also soften and hydrate simultaneously. Also, the melting prowess of an oil-based cleanser is unmatched: it can remove even the most stubborn of makeup, like waterproof mascara and eyeliner. Those who find their makeup is still lingering after cleansing may find an oil-based cleanser is more effective at cleaning than other alternatives.  

The secret to effectively using an oil-based cleanser is in your method. Start with dry, clean hands, use the recommended amount of oil cleanser (noted on package instructions), and massage into the face dry. Massage with gentle pressure for 30 to 60 seconds, and then add a few drops of water and continue to massage skin as the cleanser then becomes milky. Add a few more drops of water and keep massaging while all makeup, sunscreen, and debris melt away. Then fully wash off the cleanser with water. Skin will feel both cleansed and comfortably softened and moisturized. You can stop here and go to your next skincare steps, or follow up with a water-based cleanser or face polish if you’re following a double cleanse method. 

Who Should Use A Water-Based Cleanser?

Thanks to modern skincare technology, water-based cleansers can be an ideal fit for anyone. Water-based formulas can vary from balancing gel options that control excess oil to soft foaming cleansers that gently wash with a soft-as-a-cloud texture. In general, they are wonderful for those who love a refreshing, squeaky-clean feeling. 

They also tend to be quite straightforward to use, which is another advantage. Consult the recommended usage for your specific cleanser of choice, but most water-based cleansers are best used by massaging the wash with wet hands onto a wet face. Gently massage skin for as long as you’d like, from 10 to 60 seconds, and then wash away with water. Skin will feel delightfully cleansed and also boosted with the additional benefits of your selected water-based cleanser, whether that be clarifying, soothing, or calming. 

Oil Cleanser Or Water Cleanser First?

Oil cleansers must absolutely be used first if using the double cleanse method. This two-step method has been used in Japan for centuries, beloved for its ability to melt away stubborn makeup (with the oil-based cleanser), then cleanse and treat the skin (with the water-based cleanser). If you reversed the cleansers, you wouldn’t be able to effectively first remove the makeup and then cleanse the skin. The correct order to the inquiry of ‘oil cleanser or water-based cleanser first’ is oil cleanser first, followed by the water-based cleanser of your choice. 

How To Choose A Water-Based Cleanser

As highlighted above, the beauty of a water-based cleanser is in its individuality. There is a cleanser specifically designed for your skin type. To make things easy, we’ve narrowed down your ideal water-based cleanser below. 

For Dry or Combo Skin 

• The Rice Wash

Consider trying The Rice Wash, which is a cream cleanser designed for all skin types, including dry. The soft and creamy foam texture gently soothes and washes away buildup without stripping skin for a hydrated, luminous complexion. The bestselling face wash is purposeful with its lather: the foam comes from the pH-neutral amino acid base and Japanese rice powder, which naturally softens and balances skin. Plus, the addition of Okinawa algae and hyaluronic acid gives skin a boost of hydration and plumpness as well. 

• The Rice Polish: Classic

Consider our Rice Polish, which is a water-activated exfoliant that transforms into a creamy, cloud-like foam. While the word ‘exfoliant’ might be confusing while chatting about cleansers, it is perfectly safe to use daily and in the place of a cleanser because the non-abrasive formula both cleanses and exfoliates simultaneously. Finely ground rice bran and papaya enzymes promote natural skin turnover, while the amino acid-based formula provides effective cleansing without stripping the skin of essential moisture or breaking the skin’s barrier function. 

For Oily Skin

• The Matcha Cleanse 

If you enjoy a gel cleanser, which can provide a refreshing experience, consider The Matcha Cleanse. Those with oily and combination skin often believe they need to over-wash their faces to rid themselves of excessive oil and prevent breakouts — but this skin-stripping step can do the opposite, causing the skin to produce even more oil and potentially lead to more breakouts. This is where The Matcha Cleanse steps in to save the day. The daily clarifying gel cleanser decongests pores without stripping skin, while also rebalancing skin’s natural oil production for smoother skin and reduced makeup slip-off. The refreshing watery-foam formula includes premium Kyo-matcha (sourced directly from the famed Uji region in Kyoto), powerhouse coix seed (used in herbal medicines for centuries to purify pores), and Japanese mugwort (to support barrier function). 

• The Rice Polish: Deep 

Oily skin will adore this deeper cleansing and exfoliating iteration of the Rice Polish. This version is boosted with wild rose, which helps tighten the look of pores and clarify skin, making it a great fit for combination and oily skin. This is ideal for those who want a dose of exfoliation while also cleansing, helping to combine two steps in one. 

For Sensitive Skin 

• The Rice Polish: Gentle

If you find your skin tinged with sensitivity (here’s how to know) or extreme dryness during seasonal changes, this is the cleanser for you. Powered with licorice root extract, which prevents flakiness and tightness, this is a beautiful option for those with dry skin and a touch of sensitivity. Start out using the formula once a week and then add more frequency as skin adjusts to the accelerated level of exfoliation. 

• The Rice Polish: Calming 

Sensitive skin and cleansing don’t always go hand-in-hand. Knowing sensitive and dry skin can often be triggered by cleansing (and especially exfoliation), but also how important they are for the overall health of the skin, we formulated this gentle option. Natural Japanese indigo soothes visible irritation and is perfect for exfoliating sensitive and mature skin. With gentleness top of mind, this formula is made without papaya enzymes to make it extra soothing.

How To Choose An Oil-Based Cleanser

Not all oil-based cleansers are created equal. For example, some are more hydrating, making them less ideal for oily skin types. To make things seamless, we’ve broken down the best oil-based cleansers, based on your skin type. 

For Oily, Dry, and Combo Skin 

• The Camellia Cleansing Oil

Most skin types will adore the versatile Camellia Cleansing Oil, which gently melts away impurities, while also leaving behind silky-soft skin. What makes it so unique is the inclusion of Japanese camellia oil or Tsubaki. This featherlight botanical oil has been prized in Asia for centuries for its deeply moisturizing and antioxidant properties, helping to nourish skin from the inside out. If that wasn’t enough, the cleansing oil also includes our proprietary Hadasei-3 complex to help nourish the skin. The antioxidant-rich trio of superfoods (rice, green tea, and algae) works to hydrate, resurface, and plump while the cleanser melts away impurities, sunscreen, and waterproof makeup. 

For Sensitive Skin 

• The Indigo Cleansing Balm 

While even sensitive skin will love The Camellia Cleansing Oil, we decided to create a balm cleanser specifically for sensitive skin that not only supports but calms and nourishes. Consider The Indigo Cleansing Balm, a skin-strengthening formula that instantly calms visible irritation, while also supporting and transforming the barrier. The dermatologist-tested and fragrance-free formula was crafted with weakened, sensitized skin in mind, knowing traditional cleansing can be painful and damaging. The formula includes Japanese indigo to calm visibly irritated skin; lipids and ceramides to replenish the barrier; Japanese lotus root to soothe; and mondo grass root to help balance the microbiome. In clinical studies, 100 percent of participants demonstrated an improvement in barrier function after just one week of use.* But unlike harsh cleansers, the Indigo Cleansing Balm also soothes visible irritation and replenishes moisture — strengthening the skin barrier for smooth, visibly calm, and radiant-looking skin. 

*Based on bio-instrumentation (TEWL) clinical study on 40 panelists.

Now that we know the difference between an oil cleanser vs. water-based cleanser, you can find the ideal products that support your skin type. Our only hope at Tatcha is that you feel supported and empowered by your skincare, and that journey starts with your cleanser.